"Table for one sir?", so came the greeting from the waitress as I walked in to the restaurant of my hotel for dinner. I suppose I shouldn't have been surprised, given that I was walking in on my own carrying a book, but still...it was a bit depressing to hear. It certainly made me feel a million miles away from life in Sudan.
Having left Doro -possibly one of the most underdeveloped and deprived areas in the world (you cant even get coca-cola there now) - on Tuesday, I arrived in Dubai, UAE - the 7th richest country in the world (according to the IMF). The contrast could hardly be more stark. Last night I checked in to the opulent Marriott Courtyard Hotel, my room comes complete with king size bed, wide and varied room service menu and a minibar. This is on top of at least five restaurants to choose from and staff who appear to be at my beck and call whenever I wish. A week ago I was eating lunch under a tree trying to avoid bat excrement from landing on me...
Perhaps the most galling thing about it is how easy it is to go from one scenario to the other without batting an eyelid. You'd expect that it'd take a while to adapt, but it doesn't. One minute your standing in a (literally) stinking hospital ward with dying children around you, the next your being presented with five different types of bread to accompany your (admittedly delicious) meal. Perhaps that is just the way it has to be...if you thought about it too much you'd probably go slightly insane.
Anyway, in time honoured fashion, now that I have departed from Africa I shall again depart from the world of blogging. Lest I get lured into writing about hard life is as a consultant engineer living in the west end of Glasgow. I dont think any of us want that to happen.
And so, again, I shall bid you farewell, at least until Africa lures me back again. Now I wonder if there's anything left in that minibar...
Sunday 8 July 2012
Monday 2 July 2012
One Last Day
Today was a good day. And not just because I spent the morning wandering around giving advice of dubious merit whilst managing to avoid doing any proper work myself. It reminded me of the heady days of 2010.
I have seldom, if ever, had good last days in Doro but I am happy to say that today bucked that trend. You may recall that my last day back in September 2010 was spent lying under a tree with malaria, wondering if anything I'd done had been in any way worthwhile (apparently tropical diseases can do that to your state of mind). Today I was reminded that it was...
This morning I lead prayers with the CHW's (Community Health Workers) at the clinic. These guys pretty much constituted my group of friends last time around and our get together this morning was just like old times. It was a timely reminder of the value of building good relationships with the Sudanese people and not just focusing on the practical task in hand. A couple of them even called me 'Leader', which was kind of my nickname when I lived here (I've had worse). And there were lots of kind words.
The rest of the day was spent catching up with some missionary friends here, and contemplating if/how/why God calls people to the missionfield, and the relative worth of practical tasks over telling people about Jesus. Challenging stuff.
This evening I treated myself to a walk round the maternity unit that I worked on last time out. It actually looks pretty good (apart from all the spiders webs, rat droppings and thousands of pounds worth of medical equipment lying about in boxes). I think they are hoping to have it opent by the end of the year.
So all in all, I have been reminded of the worth, in every sense, of the time I spent here previously. And have had my desire to return and live here one day reaffirmed.
Also, in case you are wondering, I now leave first thing tomorrow morning. So I am off to spend my last few waking hours with my friend Dau who arrived on the plane we are leaving on. He's the first Sudanese guy I ever held hands with. We have a special bond.
As one of my good friends here likes to put it: My cup runneth over...
I have seldom, if ever, had good last days in Doro but I am happy to say that today bucked that trend. You may recall that my last day back in September 2010 was spent lying under a tree with malaria, wondering if anything I'd done had been in any way worthwhile (apparently tropical diseases can do that to your state of mind). Today I was reminded that it was...
This morning I lead prayers with the CHW's (Community Health Workers) at the clinic. These guys pretty much constituted my group of friends last time around and our get together this morning was just like old times. It was a timely reminder of the value of building good relationships with the Sudanese people and not just focusing on the practical task in hand. A couple of them even called me 'Leader', which was kind of my nickname when I lived here (I've had worse). And there were lots of kind words.
The rest of the day was spent catching up with some missionary friends here, and contemplating if/how/why God calls people to the missionfield, and the relative worth of practical tasks over telling people about Jesus. Challenging stuff.
This evening I treated myself to a walk round the maternity unit that I worked on last time out. It actually looks pretty good (apart from all the spiders webs, rat droppings and thousands of pounds worth of medical equipment lying about in boxes). I think they are hoping to have it opent by the end of the year.
So all in all, I have been reminded of the worth, in every sense, of the time I spent here previously. And have had my desire to return and live here one day reaffirmed.
Also, in case you are wondering, I now leave first thing tomorrow morning. So I am off to spend my last few waking hours with my friend Dau who arrived on the plane we are leaving on. He's the first Sudanese guy I ever held hands with. We have a special bond.
As one of my good friends here likes to put it: My cup runneth over...
Sunday 1 July 2012
Goodbye Doro...Again
So, tonight could be my last night in Doro, or it may not be, depending on how things pan out. A plane is coming tomorrow to take a few of us out to Kenya, where I will reside until Saturday. Whether it leaves Doro tomorrow or on Tuesday is a question that I do not yet know the answer to. The most painful thing about this is that there is a chance I may never return...although I hope that is not the case.
Since I last wrote there has been a lot of working on various tasks, finishing the aforementioned windows, wiring electrics in a house (may God protect the first person to use that), and wandering around Doro and exploring the market here (it didn't exist when I was here).
Today was church in Doro (Where they do not ask you to preach at the drop of a hat), which was a blessed experience. A chance to greet my Mabaan friends one last time, and to greet the whole church. Unfortunately I bottled out of attempting to do so in my rusty Arabic...
I am hugely thankful for the chance to come out here, to see old friends and be reminded of what things are like in the real world. Probably the highlight has been the chance to spend time with two of my best friends in the last couple of days. Yesterday, I managed to find Joseph - what a guy - and briefly catch up on what's been going on in our lives (and re-acclimatise to hand holding with other guys....). This was followed by a visit to the nearest hospital to visit his 2 year old daughter, who is suffering from Pneumonia. Which was a sobering experience. When we said goodbye I promised him we'd meet again, a promise I hope I will be able to keep.
In case you're interested, my plan now is to go on an African adventure in Kenya once we arrive back, having been invited by Gilbert, our Kenyan builder, to visit him at his place. A trip which should allow me to also see John Maruti, my erstwhile right hand man. Ironically enough, the last thing he said to me back in September 2010 was "Don't worry Keveen, we will meet again". At least it looks like there is one promise that will be kept...
And now I should go to bed, a prospect which has become about 90% less appealing since I heard that this afternoon's rain has soaked my mattress (apparently there's literally a pool of water on it) and my copy of My Utmost for His Highest, my bedtime reading...I love rainy season
Since I last wrote there has been a lot of working on various tasks, finishing the aforementioned windows, wiring electrics in a house (may God protect the first person to use that), and wandering around Doro and exploring the market here (it didn't exist when I was here).
Today was church in Doro (Where they do not ask you to preach at the drop of a hat), which was a blessed experience. A chance to greet my Mabaan friends one last time, and to greet the whole church. Unfortunately I bottled out of attempting to do so in my rusty Arabic...
I am hugely thankful for the chance to come out here, to see old friends and be reminded of what things are like in the real world. Probably the highlight has been the chance to spend time with two of my best friends in the last couple of days. Yesterday, I managed to find Joseph - what a guy - and briefly catch up on what's been going on in our lives (and re-acclimatise to hand holding with other guys....). This was followed by a visit to the nearest hospital to visit his 2 year old daughter, who is suffering from Pneumonia. Which was a sobering experience. When we said goodbye I promised him we'd meet again, a promise I hope I will be able to keep.
In case you're interested, my plan now is to go on an African adventure in Kenya once we arrive back, having been invited by Gilbert, our Kenyan builder, to visit him at his place. A trip which should allow me to also see John Maruti, my erstwhile right hand man. Ironically enough, the last thing he said to me back in September 2010 was "Don't worry Keveen, we will meet again". At least it looks like there is one promise that will be kept...
And now I should go to bed, a prospect which has become about 90% less appealing since I heard that this afternoon's rain has soaked my mattress (apparently there's literally a pool of water on it) and my copy of My Utmost for His Highest, my bedtime reading...I love rainy season
Monday 25 June 2012
Some things never change...
Another day, another chance to relive events of days gone by. Today, I was half way through a job when a Kenyan builder wandered along and told me I was doing it wrong. Thanks for that. Avid followers of this blog will remember that when I was here previously this was a regular occurence with my right hand man, John Maruti. Unfortunately he is not the Kenyan builder in question here, although to be honest, Gilbert is the next best thing (He even sounds like John, and uses the same phrases. It can only be a matter of time before I hear "Noooo, not like that Keveen").
In case you are interested, today was mostly spent making windows (I say windows - they have no glass!) for a house for some missionaries here, along with considering cutting my flight back to Dubai particularly fine in order to have a few more days in Doro. In the words of one of the missionaries here "that sounds completely wreckless, but I think it's cool". We shall see how that one turns out. This evening, after regaling you all with my musings I plan to spend some time pondering lifes big question under the stars, which is always fun. Perhaps by the end I'll have decided to go become a monk...
Unfortunately, today also had some bad events to relive. Namely, hearing tales from the clinic of two dead children (pneumonia I believe). In the words of one of the nurses, "there was no need for these children to die". But such is life here, the incomprehensible happens all the time. And you just have to get on with it. Maybe you should come and see for yourself...it has the potential to change your life, or at least to help you realise how good you have it....
In case you are interested, today was mostly spent making windows (I say windows - they have no glass!) for a house for some missionaries here, along with considering cutting my flight back to Dubai particularly fine in order to have a few more days in Doro. In the words of one of the missionaries here "that sounds completely wreckless, but I think it's cool". We shall see how that one turns out. This evening, after regaling you all with my musings I plan to spend some time pondering lifes big question under the stars, which is always fun. Perhaps by the end I'll have decided to go become a monk...
Unfortunately, today also had some bad events to relive. Namely, hearing tales from the clinic of two dead children (pneumonia I believe). In the words of one of the nurses, "there was no need for these children to die". But such is life here, the incomprehensible happens all the time. And you just have to get on with it. Maybe you should come and see for yourself...it has the potential to change your life, or at least to help you realise how good you have it....
Sunday 24 June 2012
Sunday
"This short guy is very strong". So said pastor James Haruun as he introduced me as the preacher at church this morning (I was ready for him this time). Quite what he was basing this bold assertion on I'm not so sure, but it was certainly good to be back in Gasmalla and reunited with some more old friends.
Following our ten mile round trip walk to/from church I got the chance to spend some time indulging what is probably one of my favourite Sudanses pastimes: lying on a bed under a tree dosing in the afternoon sun. It doesnt get much better than that...Indeed, some of my former teamates here have been known to speculate that I spent more time under a tree than I did doing any work. Which is of course not true.
Anyway, that is all for today. But before I go let me pose a question. As a missionary, is it better to live life as much as possible in the same way as the people you are among, trying to become like them so that you can relate to them better, or should we be showin them the way to develop their circumstances by setting a higher standard? I used to be well and truly in the former category. Now I'm not so sure.
Until next time, my friends...
Following our ten mile round trip walk to/from church I got the chance to spend some time indulging what is probably one of my favourite Sudanses pastimes: lying on a bed under a tree dosing in the afternoon sun. It doesnt get much better than that...Indeed, some of my former teamates here have been known to speculate that I spent more time under a tree than I did doing any work. Which is of course not true.
Anyway, that is all for today. But before I go let me pose a question. As a missionary, is it better to live life as much as possible in the same way as the people you are among, trying to become like them so that you can relate to them better, or should we be showin them the way to develop their circumstances by setting a higher standard? I used to be well and truly in the former category. Now I'm not so sure.
Until next time, my friends...
Saturday 23 June 2012
Welcome Back
Today I did something I have never done before - walked through a refugee camp. Then played volleyball in said refugee camp, using a combination of height advantage and goalkeeping prowess to help my team of missionaries to second place in a tournament we (I say we, I didnt really do much) had organised. The term 'refugee camp has always conjoured up a particular image in my mind however (unsurprisingly) the reality was somewhat different. It's kinda like a large village full of UNHCR standard issue tents. I say a large village, a large village of several tens of thousands of people (I've yet to hear the same number quoted twice, what is certain is that it is a lot of people) where there were none before. It really is a dire situation, although I and my team-mates were struck by the fact that almost everyone we saw was still smiling. These people have a lot to teach us.
We arrived in Doro on Thursday afternoon, after a fairly lengthy journey. Being back after being away for so long is a strange experience, a mixture of feeling like I was never away and being hit in the face by the start changes that have taken place since I left.
One thing that has not disappointed has been the chance to be reunited with my Sudanese friends. It has been worth the journey just for that. Already I have had more (semi-awkward) embraces from two me old enough to be my grandfather, simultaneously lamenting the fact that I am only here for a short time. That coupled with the chance to catch up with my close friends as been the highlight of my week. I've made a lot of promises to go and visit people that I may well struggle to keep!
Anyway, for now I must go, as someone is waiting to use the computer. But rest assured I shall keep you posted with whats going on here, hopefully with some more profound insight than I have been able to offer here.
However, in time honoured fashion I shall leave you with a sobering story. Of the many good friends I left behind back in 2010, at least three have taken second wives. This saddens me greatly as, for a Christian (which these guys are), this is the Sudanese equivalent of...well, something pretty bad (I'm not sure what comparison to draw). Some of the guys in question were, to my mind, the least likely to go down this road however temptation has taken it;s toll. Whch brings me back to my intial observation that I was quick to recount to anyone who would listen when I got home in September 2010. Where are the people teaching the young men of this tribe to live as diciples of Jesus. I'll tell you where they're not....here.
We arrived in Doro on Thursday afternoon, after a fairly lengthy journey. Being back after being away for so long is a strange experience, a mixture of feeling like I was never away and being hit in the face by the start changes that have taken place since I left.
One thing that has not disappointed has been the chance to be reunited with my Sudanese friends. It has been worth the journey just for that. Already I have had more (semi-awkward) embraces from two me old enough to be my grandfather, simultaneously lamenting the fact that I am only here for a short time. That coupled with the chance to catch up with my close friends as been the highlight of my week. I've made a lot of promises to go and visit people that I may well struggle to keep!
Anyway, for now I must go, as someone is waiting to use the computer. But rest assured I shall keep you posted with whats going on here, hopefully with some more profound insight than I have been able to offer here.
However, in time honoured fashion I shall leave you with a sobering story. Of the many good friends I left behind back in 2010, at least three have taken second wives. This saddens me greatly as, for a Christian (which these guys are), this is the Sudanese equivalent of...well, something pretty bad (I'm not sure what comparison to draw). Some of the guys in question were, to my mind, the least likely to go down this road however temptation has taken it;s toll. Whch brings me back to my intial observation that I was quick to recount to anyone who would listen when I got home in September 2010. Where are the people teaching the young men of this tribe to live as diciples of Jesus. I'll tell you where they're not....here.
Tuesday 19 June 2012
Back, by Popular Demand
So, I'm at the beginning of another (short) African adventure, and I've decided to resurrect my blog. We (Ben, Colin & I) arrived in Kenya on Sunday afternoon, and I was reunited with a lot of my old colleagues and team-mates on Monday morning. It was a heartwarmingly warm welcome!
A particular highlight has been the chance to spend time with an old friend who I thought I would never see again. We last saw wach other on the airstrip in Doro back in September 2010
For those of you who don't already know, we are heading out to Doro for a couple of weeks (all that annual leave would permit) to help out on a housing project there. We fly out from Nairobi early on Thursday and will arrive in Doro that afternoon.
Since arriving in Kenya and hearing from the other SIM people I have been struck by just how much different Doro is now to when I left. Back in 2010 it was a small village of a few thousand people in the middle of the Sudanese bush. Now (apparently) it is the site of a major relief operation, with tens of thousands of refugees on the doorstep of the village. I cant get my head round what it is going to look like...
The more I think about this, the more aprehensive I become about going back in. It's kind of like it'd be better going in completely blind than going in thinking you know what a place is like, when in fact you have no idea. The one thing that outweighs that apprehension is the anticipation of more heartwarming reunions with friends (both former team-mates and Sudanese alike) which is, after all, what it is all about.
So doubtless, once I'm back in Doro, I'll have plenty of interesting experience to tell you about, and I'll attempt to do so with my customary mixture of humour and harsh reality. Which gives you all something to look forward to...
A particular highlight has been the chance to spend time with an old friend who I thought I would never see again. We last saw wach other on the airstrip in Doro back in September 2010
For those of you who don't already know, we are heading out to Doro for a couple of weeks (all that annual leave would permit) to help out on a housing project there. We fly out from Nairobi early on Thursday and will arrive in Doro that afternoon.
Since arriving in Kenya and hearing from the other SIM people I have been struck by just how much different Doro is now to when I left. Back in 2010 it was a small village of a few thousand people in the middle of the Sudanese bush. Now (apparently) it is the site of a major relief operation, with tens of thousands of refugees on the doorstep of the village. I cant get my head round what it is going to look like...
The more I think about this, the more aprehensive I become about going back in. It's kind of like it'd be better going in completely blind than going in thinking you know what a place is like, when in fact you have no idea. The one thing that outweighs that apprehension is the anticipation of more heartwarming reunions with friends (both former team-mates and Sudanese alike) which is, after all, what it is all about.
So doubtless, once I'm back in Doro, I'll have plenty of interesting experience to tell you about, and I'll attempt to do so with my customary mixture of humour and harsh reality. Which gives you all something to look forward to...
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